{UAH} Kitenge, eh...! - The multipurpose loin cloth

Start-up reinvents kitenge fabric

SKILL DEVELOPMENT: Ugandans are growing to love and appreciate their styles as evidenced by the numbers that flock their outlets in central Kampala.

Kampala, Uganda - Business start-ups and cultivation of entrepreneurship is being cited as the best way to solve the youth unemployment problem and also improve overall incomes.

Sub-Saharan Africa has the fastest growing rate of young people. Unfortunately, most are unable to contribute significantly to the national economy due to lack of jobs in the dwindling public service and the shortage of vacancies in the formal sector.

This means that today, young people need to be imaginative and show more self-initiative than ever before. Certainly more than say 40 and 50 years ago.

They should also be driven with a strategy fueled by passion, artistry and a basic understanding that use of minimal capital is crucial.

Youthful Martin Manzi, a Kampala businessman, has soaked up much of this advice in setting up his kitenge enterprise.

The Kitenge is a time tested colorful fabric worn by women all over Africa.

Over time, fashion designers have brought men on board by designing eye catching shirts and suits that are tailored especially for them.

Manzi under his brand, ‘Qenteggei’ has set out to transform the Kitenge by adding a Ugandan dimension to his various designs.

The multi-color fabric, thanks to the tie and die process with a substantial amount of wax application, is made out of cotton and usually made thick and strong. They come in different types depending on culture, region, design, available materials  and related aspects.

The Kitenge can be worn in different ways as cultures, designers and individual interest may dictate but for women they dress it in the form of a dress, skirt, scarf and for men they can get shirts, trousers and suits.

Towards the end of last year, Manzi together with a friend agreed to have a brand and embrace it with an African culture hence the birth of Qenteggei.

Under their stewardship, Qenteggei is fast becoming a household name and is improving the importance of this popular African fabric.

The two pooled together Ush40 million (about $15,625) to start the business of modifying, designing and retailing the Kitenge in and around Kampala.

But like their first customers, who mostly were their close friends, Ugandans are growing to love and appreciate their styles.  

“We wanted Ugandans to buy a brand they love and one that has value. I must say we are getting an amazing response. Ugandans love Kitenge,” Manzi said.

At the moment their enterprise employs four tailors and two fashion designers whose output is supplied to their shops, one at Park Royale opposite Watoto Church and to their clients around town.

However, the raw material or textiles are imported mainly from West Africa (Ivory Coast), Holland in Europe and India, because the versions made in Uganda are of poor quality.

This is one of their greatest challenges, because the cost of importing takes up a huge chunk of their working capital.

“Ugandans who are making kitenges are not doing a good job. The print is either faded or something is wrong with it. This is not good for our business and our standards,” Manzi said.    

“We want to tailor make garments for Ugandans that they can wear to office, party or on an evening out. Some people come and buy the material and take it to their tailors. Some people, especially the ladies, come with their designs and we sew it for them,”

Manzi acknowledges that Uganda is a multi-cultural country whose people love to look good by dressing well and colourfully.

Catering for the different cultural styles, demands blending their kitenges with some bit of modernity, but maintaining the African touch. 

Manzi remains open to new opportunities especially in East Africa as it becomes one big open market in the coming years ahead.

By Baz Waiswa, Monday, March 03rd, 2014

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Gwokto La'Kitgum

"Even a small dog can piss on a tall Building", Jim Hightower

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