{UAH} My visit to the Royal Kasubi Tombs - 2

My visit to the Royal Kasubi Tombs

-          By Moses Wilson (June 2014)

The Royal Kasubi Tombs are located on Kasubi Hill in the northwestern part of Kampala City, about a 20 minute drive (without traffic) from the city center.  The entire site covers an area of about 75 acres (30 hectares) of which less than 10% is developed with structures

The site comprises of three main zones: the main tomb area, located at the western end of the site on top of the hill; an area located behind the main tombs containing a number of buildings and graveyards; and a large area on the eastern side of the site used primarily for agricultural purposes that support the permanent residential attendants of the site.

Beyond the main gate is a large D-shaped main courtyard (Olugya) surrounded by a reed fence and within which are a number of buildings including the main tombs building, five houses for the widows of past Kabakas, and other buildings that serve various other cultural purposes.

The principal feature of the Olugya is the very impressive and imposing tombs building called Muzibu Azaala Mpanga.  I shall write more about this building later.

Beyond the Olugya is scattered a large number of buildings (residential housing, buildings for agricultural purposes) and a royal cemetery. The whole area is sacred and has historically not been open to visitors.

As I viewed the vast Olugya area, I could see that significant efforts were underway to renovate and rehabilitate the various buildings enclosed within the reed fence.  One or two of them were in a serious state of disrepair while others had either been already greatly improved upon or undergoing repair.  The challenge here was how to upgrade the buildings to reasonably modern building standards without compromising their historical value and aesthetics.  At the same time, the buildings are intended to be of practical use as residents for royal functionaries and attendants, or for other ancillary attendant functions.

Allow me to confess to a small personal bias.  It is my hope that the historical aesthetics of this wonderful courtyard and all the buildings in it will not be sacrificed at the altar of modernization.  It is my hope that upon completion, visitors to this very special site will be able to view a slice of Kiganda culture and leave with a greater appreciation of the traditions and (for lack of a better phrase) "ekitibwa kya Buganda."

My tour guide led me to the right of the Olugya and past the reed enclosure to an area normally inaccessible to the general public.  Here are to be found the modest homes of some of the attendants who serve at the site and an area where several past Kabakas' wives are buried.

From here we proceeded to an area located directly behind the main tombs building and very obviously held in high reverence.  This was a cemetery where the direct descendants of the last four Kabakas are buried - the most recent (as of June 2014) being a princess in 2012.  The royal cemetery is laid out in four rows within which are buried descendants in the direct line of each past Kabaka.

It is important to note burial in this site is not restricted by religion.  As such, gravestones bore evidence of both Christian and Moslem faiths.  Knowing that I had been granted a significant privilege to take photographs in this area, I made sure to do so with utmost respect and reverence.

More to follow.

-          Ssabasajja Awangale